Camping in A Coruña: Costa da Morte, Rías Altas and the Atlantic city
The province of A Coruña is the gateway to the Atlantic at the far north-western tip of the Peninsula. Its coastline is one of the most varied in Spain: long beaches of fine sand on the Costa da Morte, calmer estuaries (rías) in the southern stretch, sheer cliffs and capes that jut out into the ocean, and lighthouses that for centuries guided ships to safe harbours. The Tower of Hercules, the oldest Roman lighthouse in the world still in operation, rises above the city of A Coruña and is a World Heritage Site. The urban beaches of Riazor and Orzán, washed by the Atlantic at the foot of the city's promenades, make A Coruña one of the provincial capitals with the most maritime character in Spain.
The Costa da Morte occupies the stretch between the Muros-Noia rías and the Corme-Laxe ría, with villages such as Muxía, Camariñas and Fisterra, the cape the Romans considered the end of the known world. Its beaches — Carnota, with the largest dune in Galicia, Laxe, Malpica — alternate beauty and solitude. Surfing and windsurfing find ideal conditions here for much of the year. The Fragas do Eume, inland, are one of the best-preserved Atlantic riverside forests in Europe, with giant ferns and centuries-old oaks beside the Eume river.
Santiago de Compostela, although technically in the south of the province, is the cultural and spiritual epicentre of Galicia. Its Romanesque cathedral, the Obradoiro square and the alleys of the old town — a World Heritage Site — receive hundreds of thousands of pilgrims every year who arrive on foot, by bicycle or on horseback along the various branches of the Way of St James. The city has a university life all year round and a food scene that ranges from octopus and goose barnacles to tetilla cheese and the Santiago almond tart. The hiking routes that converge on Santiago cross landscapes of forests, hamlets and chapels that make the journey as interesting as the arrival, or more so.
The Rías Altas, in the north of the province, offer estuaries of great beauty such as those of Ferrol, Ares and Betanzos. The last of these surrounds Betanzos, a medieval town with Gothic churches and a centuries-old balloon festival. The seafood of the A Coruña coast — velvet crabs, spider crabs, goose barnacles, clams — is eaten at local festivals throughout the summer. The province's campsites allow you to combine days on the open Atlantic beach with excursions to the green interior, cultural visits to Santiago or A Coruña and walks along stretches of the Way of St James that are especially varied and accessible in this province.
The camping season runs from June to September, with July and August the busiest months. Spring and autumn are ideal for exploring the Costa da Morte or the Fragas do Eume without the crowds, with the landscape at its most intense green and mild temperatures. Motorhomes and caravans have here a network of service areas and campsites well distributed along the coast, making coastal itineraries easy that can be completed in a week or two following the Atlantic profile from north to south.
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