Camping in Toledo: the weight of history and the silent nature of the Montes
Toledo is one of the most visited cities in Spain, and with good reason: its old town concentrates an exceptional density of monuments in just a few kilometres. The primate cathedral, the Alcázar, the synagogues of Santa María la Blanca and El Tránsito, the Mudéjar churches and the remains of the Jewish quarter, the Cristo de la Luz mosque and the convent of Santo Domingo el Antiguo make up a World Heritage ensemble that takes at least two days to visit at a relaxed pace. Camping near Toledo and entering the city by bike or on foot is a way of experiencing it that differs from that of the coach tourist, with time to stop, wander its narrow streets and dine in the city once the groups have left.
But the province of Toledo has natural dimensions that many visitors completely overlook. The Montes de Toledo form a mountain barrier of mid-height ranges that separates the plateau of the Tagus basin from that of the Guadiana towards Extremadura. Their forests of holm oak, cork oak, Portuguese oak and pine, their streams and their dehesas are the habitat of the Iberian lynx, one of the few territories in Spain where this recovering feline finds suitable conditions, as well as deer, wild boar, vultures and eagles. The main area of Cabañeros National Park lies in the Montes de Toledo within the province of Toledo.
The La Jara district is another territory of dehesas and oak woods that sees little traffic, with small, quiet villages and reservoirs for cooling off in summer. The Cijara reservoir, on the border with Extremadura, and the Torcón and Guajaraz reservoirs are bathing and fishing areas much appreciated by local residents and by campers looking for a quiet alternative to the beach. The Sierra de San Vicente, at the western end, connects with the Sierra de Gredos and offers hiking and mountain biking routes among chestnut trees and ferns.
Talavera de la Reina, the second city of the province, is known worldwide for its glazed tile ceramics. Its craft workshops continue to produce pieces with the Arab- and Renaissance-inspired designs that made the city famous in the sixteenth century. Oropesa preserves its medieval castle with views over the plain, and Orgaz, Tembleque and Ocaña have arcaded main squares of great architectural beauty.
Toledo's cuisine has its most universal product in marzipan, although local cooking goes far beyond that. Carcamusa from Toledo, lamb cochifrito, partridge stewed Toledo-style and the wines of the Méntrida DO are part of an honest and tasty culinary tradition. Campers who combine a visit to the historic city with routes through the Montes de Toledo or excursions to La Jara find in this province a balanced combination of culture, nature and gastronomy that few provinces in inland Spain can match.
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