Camping in Soria: Laguna Negra, the Río Lobos Canyon and the silence of the plateau
Soria is the least populated provincial capital in Spain, and that condition, which has held back the area's economic development for decades, becomes a virtue for travellers looking for nature without crowds. The Soria landscape has an austerity that Antonio Machado, who lived here for several years and fell in love with Leonor Izquierdo here, turned into poetry of the first rank. The poplars along the River Duero as it passes through the city are still recognisable to anyone who has read his verses.
The Sierra de Urbión, in the north of the province, is where the River Duero rises. The Laguna Negra, a glacial lake wedged between walls of dark rock and surrounded by centuries-old black pines, is one of the most evocative landscapes of the plateau. Access from Vinuesa is easy and the visual impact, especially in autumn with the morning mist, justifies any journey. The Sierra de Cebollera, the Laguna de la Virgen and the pine woods of Valonsadero near the capital are other natural areas that invite unhurried hiking and wildlife watching.
The Río Lobos Canyon, in the south of the province on the border with Burgos, is the area's great natural park. Over millions of years the River Lobos has carved a limestone canyon with white walls of whimsical shapes where the griffon vulture rules the skies. The Templar hermitage of San Bartolomé, set in the heart of the canyon, is one of the most mysterious and beautiful buildings of Castilian Romanesque. The trail through the park is long but entirely accessible and passes caves and distinctive karst formations.
Numancia, the Celtiberian site where the inhabitants of the city preferred to die rather than surrender to Rome, stands on a hill a few kilometres from Soria and has a neighbouring museum that puts the historical episode well into context. Medinaceli, in the south, has a Roman arch with three openings unique on the Peninsula and a raised old town with splendid views over the valley. Campsites in Soria are few but well placed for exploring the province. The season is short, concentrated between June and September, as the Soria winter is long and cold. Soria crackling, seasonal mushrooms in autumn, Soria butter and lechazo from local flocks are the star products of a simple, high-quality cuisine.
