Camping in Pontevedra: Rías Baixas, the Cíes Islands and the gentlest Atlantic coast
Pontevedra is the Galician province that holds most of the Rías Baixas, the mildest and sunniest coastal stretch in Galicia. The rías of Vigo, Pontevedra, Arousa and Muros-Noia form a succession of inlets sheltered from the open Atlantic that have given rise to white sandy beaches and warmer waters than the rest of the Galician coast, mussel rafts that dot the water in endless rows and fishing villages where life revolves around fishing and shellfish gathering. It is a coast to enjoy as a family, with options for swimming, boating, kayaking and boat trips to the islands.
The Cíes Islands are the emblem of the Galician Atlantic archipelago and one of the most protected natural areas in Spain. Part of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park, the three islands — Monte Agudo, O Faro and San Martiño — are only accessible by boat from Vigo and have a daily visitor quota to preserve their ecosystem. Rodas beach, inside the lagoon formed between two of the islands, has been repeatedly recognised as one of the best in the world: brilliant white sand, crystal-clear turquoise water and a silence that in high season is surprising given the volume of visitors it attracts. The Cíes campsite, the only one in the national park, lets you experience sunrise and sunset on the islands without the rush of the day visitor. The island of Ons, in the Pontevedra ría, is wilder and more solitary, with cliffs, caves and a lighthouse from which you can survey the archipelago.
The Arousa ría is the largest of the Rías Baixas and has as its landmarks the island of Arousa — joined to the mainland by a bridge — and villages such as Cambados, capital of Albariño. Cambados has a ruined pazo that is the setting for the Albariño festival every August, one of the best-known gastronomic events in Galicia. O Grove and O Salnés are shellfish enclaves where oysters, clams and cockles are eaten fresh from the sea. Combarro, in the Pontevedra ría, is one of the most photographed villages in Galicia: its stone granaries (hórreos) overlooking the sea and its cobbled medieval streets make it a must-stop on any route through the rías.
The city of Pontevedra has been internationally recognised for its pedestrian-friendly urban model. Its old town, free of motor traffic for decades, has granite squares, Baroque churches and a human-scale city atmosphere that invites you to get lost in its streets. Vigo, the largest city in Galicia, has an active port area and the famous oyster street — in the A Pedra market — where tasting fresh oysters at a street stall is an experience that sums up the Atlantic identity of the city. The Portuguese Way enters the province from the south, crossing the Miño river from Portugal, and runs along the Vigo and Pontevedra rías before heading into A Coruña.
The cuisine of Pontevedra is of the sea and the ría: steamed mussels, goose barnacles, razor clams, clams á marineira, octopus, seafood empanada and the inevitable white, fresh Albariño. The summer food festivals — of seafood in O Grove, of mussels in Arcade, of Albariño in Cambados — are popular celebrations that bring thousands of people together around an outdoor table. The province's campsites let you combine beach days on the rías with boat trips to the Cíes or Ons, cultural visits to Pontevedra or Vigo and tours of the Albariño vineyards in O Salnés, making this province one of the most complete and balanced camping destinations in northern Spain.
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