Camping in Teruel: the great unknown that wins hearts
Teruel is, statistically, the least populated province of mainland Spain, and this translates into a travel experience that is hard to find anywhere else in the country. Here the roads are almost empty, the villages keep their medieval appearance with hardly any mass tourist intervention, and the night skies, free of light pollution, show the Milky Way with a clarity that is now exceptional in Europe. These are ideal conditions for the most authentic camping.
The Sierra de Albarracín is the most visited part of the province, and with good reason. The village of Albarracín, declared a historic-artistic site, stands out above a meander of the Guadalaviar river with its crenellated walls, its ochre and reddish houses and its steep lanes. The red sandstone (rodeno) pine forests that surround the sierra shelter open-air rock paintings in places such as the Covacho de la Vacas, reachable on foot from the campsites in the area. For hikers, mountain bikers and lovers of silence, the Sierra de Albarracín is a first-rate destination.
The Maestrazgo of Teruel, shared with northern Castellón, offers a territory of mesas, ravines and gorges where villages such as Cantavieja, Mirambel (one of the best preserved in Spain) and Valderrobres have kept their medieval street layout practically intact. The Matarraña, at the eastern end of the province, adds landscapes of olive and almond groves, stone architecture and a cuisine with Mediterranean influence that contrasts with the mountainous interior. For those travelling by motorhome or caravan looking for minor roads and views without crowds, this corner is a revelation.
The capital, Teruel city, is a must-see for its extraordinary ensemble of Mudéjar architecture (the towers of El Salvador, San Martín and the Cathedral, declared a World Heritage Site) and for the legend of the Lovers of Teruel, which pervades every corner of the old town. Dinópolis, the palaeontological theme park, is a magnet for families with children and reflects the real richness of the province's dinosaur sites, some of them of worldwide importance. The black truffle of Sarrión, the ham with Teruel Designation of Origin and the Calanda peach are weighty gastronomic reasons to include this province in any route through Aragon.
The number of campsites in Teruel is limited, which faithfully reflects the sparsely populated character of the province. But this scarcity of supply is also part of the appeal: those who camp here have the hiking trails, viewpoints and village squares almost to themselves. Autumn and spring are especially recommended, with mild temperatures and a colour palette (the blue of the sky, the green of the pine forests, the ochre of the rocks) that turns any walk into a memorable experience.
